Three Thousand Years in Nine Days – Day Seven

Another beautiful sunny spring day. Arriving in Ostia Antica from Rome I followed the crowd from the train to the ancient port of Rome. Though Ostia is away from the sea now, the River Tiber having silted up the port centuries ago, I could smell the salt in the air.

The entrance of the archaeological site begins at the ancient road into Ostia.

Road into Ostia
Road into Ostia

Graves line the road into the town. Romans did not allow any burials within their cities.
Graves line the road into the town. Romans did not allow any burials within the town limits.

Necropolis - Home of the Dead
Necropolis – Home of the Dead

Once past where the town gates once stood the Baths of Neptune are to the right.

Baths of Neptune
Baths of Neptune – Palaestra or exercise area

Further along is the theatre.

Ostia Theatre
Ostia Theatre
Theatre Masks at Ostia
Theatre Masks at Ostia

While I was sat looking back at the theatre from the Temple of Ceres, I could hear a choir giving a little concert of Adele songs in the theatre.

Temple of Ceres
Temple of Ceres

Surrounding the Temple of Ceres are the remains of commercial offices of shipping and cargo companies.  The doorway in front of each office had a black and white mosaic relating to their business, mostly pictures of their ships.

Commercial Forum Ship Mosaic
Commercial Forum Ship Mosaic

Some also had mosaics representing the cargo that was shipped to the port of Rome.

Fish, olive oil and dates?
Fish, olive oil and dates?

Amazingly second storeys of building survived at Ostia. I took a photo of the Forum from the second storey of an ancient apartment block (or insula).

View of Ostia's Forum
View of Ostia’s Forum
Forum Capitolium
Forum Capitolium

I met a couple from England and I spent the afternoon touring the site with them. They had been to Pompeii a few days before and they thought that Ostia was equally impressive.

Front of the Forum Baths
Front of the Forum Baths

We wandered around streets and into houses. It felt like a maze and I know I missed a corner.

Domus Della Fortuna Annonaria
Domus Della Fortuna Annonaria

The Domus Della Fortuna Annonaria had its own private latrine.

Domus della Fortuna Annonaria private latrine
Domus della Fortuna Annonaria private latrine

The small museum on the site had several interesting pieces of marble statuary found in Ostia.

Cupid and Psyche from the Domus of Cupid and Psyche
3rd Century Cupid and Psyche from the Domus of Cupid and Psyche
Muse Sarcophagus Detail
2nd Century AD Muse Sarcophagus Detail

Ostia is a sprawling town and, though I had a day to spend there, I did not see everything.  I’m going to have to return again one day.

After a day among the ruins, I took the train a few stops west to modern Ostia and dipped my toes into the Tyhrrenian Sea with my new friends.

On Ostia Beach
On Ostia Beach

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Three Thousand Years in Nine Days – Day Six

Day Six began inauspiciously. I took the metro out to EUR to visit the Museo della Civilta Romana only to find it closed. It was a shame because this museum holds a model of ancient Rome that I wanted to see. Next time.

Back into town to the Piramide metro stop. Just opposite this stop are two small remnants of ancient Rome – the Porta San Paolo/Museo della Via Ostiense and the Pyramid of Calius Cestius.

Museo della Via Ostiensa
Museo della Via Ostiensa

The pyramid is the tomb of a Roman magistrate and member of a college of priests built between 12 and 18 BC. It was built along the Via Ostiensis, the road that lead to Rome’s port, Ostia.

Pyramid of Caius Cestius
Pyramid of Caius Cestius

A short walk away is the area of Testaccio and Monte Testaccio, the hill created by centuries of discarded ancient clay amphorae.

Monte Testaccio
Monte Testaccio

From here I walked to the Baths of Caracella. These baths, dating from AD 212, are located in a gorgeous setting and are impressively tall.

Baths of Caracalla
Baths of Caracalla

The baths were decorated with mosaic flooring.

14 Baths of Caracalla Mosaic
26 Baths of Caracalla Mosaic Fragment

And tiles on the wall.

23 Baths of Caracalla Wall Tile

On the grounds of the Baths of Caracalla a modern artist Michaelangelo Pistoletto has created a piece from ancient fragments of the baths called The Third Paradise.

37 Baths of Caracalla Fragments
A short walk and then a metro ride from the Circo Massimo stop and I’m back in my own neighbourhood.

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Three Thousand Years in Nine Days – Day Five

For Day Five I made an online reservation at the Vatican Museums, a great way to avoid the long lineups. Better to spend 4 euros than wait hours in line. Day Five was a Wednesday and Pope Francis was giving a Papal Audience in St. Peter’s Square so I was swimming against the tide heading to the Museums instead of the square.

So much to see in the museums. The Catholic Church and Popes have acquired a lot of ancient Roman artifacts over the centuries. I think I enjoyed myself most in the Museo Chiaramonti which was filled with an assortment of ancient Romans, many unknown, whose busts have survived the centuries.
82 Bust Gallery
The woman sported the most diverse and interesting hairstyles.

39 Roman Women Busts 21,22,23 45 Roman Busts 8, 7 Faustina the Younger
42 Roman Women 15,16,17,18 70 Roman Women 6,7,8
The men were varied as well, with dignitas and quirkiness on display.
48 Roman Men 13,14,15 49 Roman Men 16,17 50 Roman Man 66 Roman Man
Scattered through other rooms and courtyards were more stunning remnants of the Roman Empire.

Apollo Belvedere 2nd Century
Apollo Belvedere 2nd Century
Laocoon
Laocoon
Tauroctony 2nd Century
Tauroctony 2nd Century
Sarchophagus of St. Helena mid 4th Century?
Sarchophagus of St. Helena mid 4th Century?

One complaint I have about the Vatican Museums is the lack of signage for many of the artifacts. Possibly they don’t have provenance for all of their pieces but some description would be nice.

No lack of provenance for Rafael’s frescoes in the Stanza della Segnatura of Rafael though. These date from 1508 to 1511.

School of Athens, Rafael
School of Athens, Rafael

I really was impressed by the Sistine Chapel. I saw it 33 years ago and all Michaelangelo’s frescoes had a smoky mutedness. They have been cleaned since and now the colours are vibrant and the paintings have come to life. But since no photo taking is allowed, I have none to offer.

Finally there were Roman mosaics in various rooms and here are some highlights.

Palestrina Mosaic 2nd Century
Palestrina Mosaic 2nd Century
18 2nd Century Palestrina Mosaic
Palestrina Mosaic 2nd Century
Odysseus? 3rd Century Sala Rotonda
Odysseus? 3rd Century Sala Rotonda
1st Century Greek Cross Room
1st Century Greek Cross Room
Sala Aldobrandine Mosaic Detail
Sala Aldobrandine Mosaic Detail

After many hours in the museums I finally ventured outside into St. Peter’s Square.

Swiss Guards
Swiss Guards

Into the Basilica.

Michaelangelo's Pieta
Michaelangelo’s Pieta

Then walked home via Castel Sant Angelo.

St. Peter's from Castel Sant Angelo
St. Peter’s from Castel Sant Angelo
Castel Sant Angelo and one of Bernini's angels
Castel Sant Angelo and one of Bernini’s angels

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Three Thousand Years in Nine Days – Day Four

Day 4 was spent visiting museums and a church.

The Museum of the Imperial Fora was an expensive museum with very little in it. I hoped to see the interior of Trajan’s Market as part of it but this was closed.

Next up was the National Museum of Rome and I found a few more things of interest there. There were statues and little sarcophagi with intricate carvings giving some insight into the individuals who once inhabited ancient Rome.

A Dockworker from the port of Ostia. 1st Cent. AD
A Dockworker from the port of Ostia. 3rd Cent. AD
Funerary Urn of C. Iulus Hermes, a freedman. 1st cent. AD
Funerary Urn of C. Iulus Hermes, a freedman. 1st cent. AD
Family Group from Funerary carving. 75-50 BC
Family Group from Funerary carving. 75-50 BC
Carving of Mithras - Tauroctomy
Carving of Mithras – Tauroctony

Next was the Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria and the Baroque decorations of Gian Lorenzo Bernini, including the statue of the Ecstasy of St. Teresa, dating from 1647.

Interior of Santa Maria della Vittoria
Interior of Santa Maria della Vittoria
Cornaro Chapel with relief of Cornaro family
Cornaro Chapel with relief of Cornaro family
Cornaro Chapel relief of Cornaro family
Cornaro Chapel relief of Cornaro family
Ecstasy of St. Teresa
Cornaro Chapel – Ecstasy of St. Teresa

Finally in the Piazza Barberini is Bernini’s Triton statue dating from 1642.

Bernini's Triton Fountain
Bernini’s Triton Fountain

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Three Thousand Years in Nine Days – Day Three

Another warm and sunny day in Rome. Perfect weather for roaming among the ruins.

The Colosseum or Flavian Amphitheatre

I remember the first time seeing the interior of the Colosseum and being disappointed, I think because I had already seen the amphitheatre in Nimes which is in better condition. Nothing much has changed, of course, but they did have a great little exhibit on literacy in the Roman world, called La Biblioteca Infinita inside.

Interior of Colosseum
Interior of Colosseum
Altar of Scribes Detail from Exhibit
Altar of Scribes (1st c.) from Exhibit
Detail from a Sarcophagus from Exhibit
Philosopher and Muse from a 3rd/4th c. Sarcophagus from Exhibit

Circus Maximus

Site of chariot races, gladiator games, wild animal hunts and other spectacles, the Circus Maximus is Rome’s oldest public space dating from C6 BC. It could hold 250,000 spectators by C1 AD. In 10 BC Augustus took an obelisk dating from 1280 BC from Egypt and placed it in the circus. This was later moved (in AD 1587) and placed in the Piazza del Popolo where it is today.

Circus Maximus
Circus Maximus
Aswan Obelisk (1280 BC) from Circus Maximus now in Piazza del Popolo
Aswan Obelisk (1280 BC) from Circus Maximus now in Piazza del Popolo

Round Temple

This temple dates from the late C2/early C1 BC. Sometimes called a temple of Vesta, it is not known to which god or goddess this temple was dedicated. It may have been to Hercules. It survived because it was converted to a church known as St. Stephens in AD 1132.

Round Temple
Round Temple

Temple of Portunus

This temple replaced an earlier one on the site and dates from 80-70 BC. It survived almost intact because it was converted to the church of St. Mary in AD 872. This temple was located near the ancient Tiber port and is thought to have been dedicated to the harbour god Portunus.

Temple of Portunus
Temple of Portunus

Theatre of Marcellus

Julius Caesar planned this theatre to rival the one built by Pompey but was killed before it was completed. Augustus built it and named it for his nephew Marcellus who died in 23 BC. It once held 20,500 people and inspired theatre building around the empire. Now it contains a modern apartment building.

Theatre of Marcellus
Theatre of Marcellus

The Pantheon

This was the most impressive building to me the first time I came to Rome. It is almost 1900 years old (dates from AD 125) and still has its luxurious marble interior intact. Its dome held the world record for a concrete span until 1958, according to the Oxford Archaeological Guide to Rome. It is the third Pantheon (temple to all the gods) on this site and was built by Emperor Hadrian but was rededicated in the name of the first Pantheon builder, Marcus Agrippa. It was converted to the church of St. Mary of the Martyrs in AD 608.

Pantheon
Pantheon
Pantheon Dome and Oculus
Pantheon Dome and Oculus
Yellow Numidian Marble Columns and Pilasters
Yellow Numidian Marble Columns and Pilasters

Behind the Pantheon in the Piazza della Minerva in front of the church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva is an Aswan Egyptian Obelisk from the 6C BC, held up by a little elephant carved by Bernini in AD 1667. The obelisk was found at this site where a Temple of Isis once stood.

Bernini's Elephant beneath Egyptian Obelisk
Bernini’s Elephant beneath Egyptian Obelisk

Piazza Navona

This famous piazza was once the Stadium of Domitian built in AD 86 and held athletic and gladiatorial games. It still has the same shape as the stadium, curved at the north end and straight at the south. Seating for 30,000 would have been in the same place the surrounding buildings are in.

Piazza Navona
Piazza Navona – Egyptian Obelisk not from the Stadium
Bernini's Four Rivers Fountain
Piazza Navona – Bernini’s Four Rivers Fountain – Ganges, Asia
Piazza Navona - Bernini's Four Rivers Fountain
Piazza Navona – Bernini’s Four Rivers Fountain (Rio de la Plata, South America)

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Three Thousand Years in Nine Days – Day Two

A warm and sunny spring day is perfect for walking around the Roman Forum, Palatine Hill and the Capitoline Museums.

The Roman Forum

There are so many things to see in the Roman Forum. Big iconic structures with lots of known history, and little bits of marble with their stories untold. The Temple of Antoninus and Faustina dates from AD 141 and was dedicated by the Senate first to Faustina, wife of Emperor Antoninus Pius (138-161) and then to Antoninus when he died in 161.

Temple of Antoninus and Faustina
Temple of Antoninus and Faustina

An interesting piece of marble that caught my attention.

IMG_0045

The cult of Vesta was one of the oldest and most important cults of Roman religion. Vestal Virgins tended the sacred fire of Rome, its life force. Except for the Pontifex Maximus, men were forbidden to enter the temple.

Temple of Vesta
Temple of Vesta

The House of the Vestal Virgins was attached to the Temple.

Atrium of the House of the Vestal Virgins
Atrium of the House of the Vestal Virgins

The women who became Vestal Virgins were chosen from aristocratic Roman families from the ages of 6 to 10. They served in this prestigious post for 30 years.

Statue of a Vestal Virgin
Statue of a Vestal Virgin

The Palatine Hill

This was the hill where the emperors lived in palatial palaces. 130 m long and once clad in decorated marble, the Neronian Cryptoporticus was an underground corridor that linked the huge imperial palaces of the Julio-Claudian period (1st century AD).

The Neronian Cryptoporticus
The Neronian Cryptoporticus

The Palatine Stadium, not its historical name, was part of the Flavian Palace (2nd half of 1st century AD). I was amazed by its size which I’m not sure the photo shows. The gardens and grounds covered an area of 160 x 48m, and the walls around it tower over it.

The Palatine Stadium
The Palatine Stadium

A view of the Roman Forum and the Capitoline Hill from the Palatine Hill.

Roman Forum and Capitoline Hill
Roman Forum and Capitoline Hill

Capitoline Museums

In Michaelangelo’s courtyard outside the Capitoline Museums is a copy of the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius made in 1997.

Copy of Equestrian Statue of M. Aurelius
Copy of Equestrian Statue of M. Aurelius

Inside is the original dating from around AD 176-180.

Original Equestrian Statue of Marcus Aurelius
Original Equestrian Statue of Marcus Aurelius

I liked the statue of the Emperor Commodus (reigned AD 180-192), son of M. Aurelius, as Hercules. Commodus was not a popular emperor (Joaquin Phoenix played him in the film Gladiator), and he ended up being assassinated.

Commodus as Hercules
Commodus as Hercules
Detail of Commodus as Hercules
Detail of Commodus as Hercules
Detail of Commodus as Hercules
Detail of Commodus as Hercules

Another impressive statue was the Dying Gaul. It is a Roman marble copy of a Hellenistic bronze original which probably dates from the 2nd or 3rd century AD. Notice the Celtic torque around his neck.

The Dying Gaul
The Dying Gaul

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