Rome 2014 Archives - Roman Footprints

Three Thousand Years in Nine Days – Day Nine

Roman Italy, Rome 2014 / By admin

My last day in Rome. I had originally planned to go out to Hadrian’s Villa for the day but after my relentless eight days of sightseeing it was time to take it a little easier. Besides I had to leave a few things for my next visit to Rome.

So I walked across the Tiber via Insula Tiberina to Trastevere.

Bridge over Tiber to Isola Tibertina — Bridge (Ponte Fabricio) over the Tiber to Insula Tiberina

During a plague in 293 BC, the Romans wanted to build a temple to the god of healing, Aesculapius, so they sent a delegation to Epidauros in Greece to bring back a statue of the god and one of his snakes. Upon their return, while journeying up the Tiber to Rome, the snake escaped onto the island, Insula Tiberina. They believed this was the god’s choice for the location of his temple and that is where they built it. For over 2300 years the island has been associated with healing and there is still a hospital there today.

Trastevere is a great neighbourhood for restaurants. I began my walking tour by stopping at a cafe for a latte and croissant.

I visited the church of Santa Cecilia. She was an early Christian woman who was martyred. The columns are recycled from Roman temples. The first church here dates from the 3rd century and this church was built in the 9th century.

The mosaic dates from the 9th century and Cecilia is on the far right. The canopy is from the 1200s.

The tomb of Santa Cecilia is said to hold her remains. Since she was beheaded her face is turned and hidden from view.

The next stop on my walking tour of Trastevere was one of the oldest churches in Rome. The day I was there people were crowded into the church of Santa Maria Trastevere for Sunday Mass.

Time for a special Sunday lunch. I stopped at Trattoria de Lucia and had some delicious roast lamb.

View of Victor Emanuele Monument and Spanish Embassy in foreground

After lunch, I climbed up the hillside and found some great views of the city of Rome. Spending my day in the neighbourhood of Trastevere was a relaxing way to enjoy my last hours in Rome.

Three Thousand Years in Nine Days – Day Eight

Roman Italy, Rome 2014 / By admin

Day Eight was a cloudy/rainy day. I started out early to get to my 9 am reservation at the Borghese Gallery. I had two hours in the museum and no photos were allowed.

I was impressed by Bernini’s Baroque statues of classical myths – Daphne and Apollo, Aeneas, Anchises and Ascanius, Rape of Proserpina, and David. Also his self-portraits and portraits of Cardinal Scipione Borghese. These date from the 1600s and are in Cardinal Borghese’s villa from that period. After my museum visit I wandered through the Borghese Gardens.

Below the gardens is the Piazza del Popolo. The obelisk in the piazza was built by Ramses II in Egypt in the 1200s BC. It was brought to Rome by Augustus in 10 BC and was erected by him in the centre of the Circus Maximus. In subsequent centuries it was buried among the ruins until it was unearthed and moved to Piazza del Popolo in 1589.

In Piazza del Popolo there are three churches to Santa Maria – Santa Maria del Popolo, Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto.

I spent the rest of the afternoon walking around Rome looking at various sites, including the Mausoleum of Augustus.

The Ara Pacis, or altar of Peace built by the Roman Senate to honour Augustus, was reconstructed by Mussolini and since 2006 has been sheltered in a modern building.

Temple of ? — Temple A (probably dedicated to Girturna)

Round Temple of ? — Round Temple B (dedicated to goddess Fortuna of the Present Day)

At the corner of the site is the edge of Magnus Pompey’s theatre known as Pompey’s Portico. It was here where Julius Caesar was assassinated.

I ended my meandering tour of Rome at the Campo de’ Fiori market.

Three Thousand Years in Nine Days – Day Seven

Roman Italy, Rome 2014 / By admin

Another beautiful sunny spring day. Arriving in Ostia Antica from Rome I followed the crowd from the train to the ancient port of Rome. Though Ostia is away from the sea now, the River Tiber having silted up the port centuries ago, I could smell the salt in the air.

The entrance of the archaeological site begins at the ancient road into Ostia.

Graves line the road into the town. Romans did not allow any burials within their cities.

Necropolis - Home of the Dead — Necropolis – Home of the Dead

Once past where the town gates once stood the Baths of Neptune are to the right.

Further along is the theatre.

While I was sat looking back at the theatre from the Temple of Ceres, I could hear a choir giving a little concert of Adele songs in the theatre.

Surrounding the Temple of Ceres are the remains of commercial offices of shipping and cargo companies. The doorway in front of each office had a black and white mosaic relating to their business, mostly pictures of their ships.

Some also had mosaics representing the cargo that was shipped to the port of Rome.

Amazingly second storeys of building survived at Ostia. I took a photo of the Forum from the second storey of an ancient apartment block (or insula).

View of Ostia's Forum — View of Ostia’s Forum

I met a couple from England and I spent the afternoon touring the site with them. They had been to Pompeii a few days before and they thought that Ostia was equally impressive.

We wandered around streets and into houses. It felt like a maze and I know I missed a corner.

The Domus Della Fortuna Annonaria had its own private latrine.

Domus della Fortuna Annonaria private latrine

The small museum on the site had several interesting pieces of marble statuary found in Ostia.

3rd Century Cupid and Psyche from the Domus of Cupid and Psyche

Ostia is a sprawling town and, though I had a day to spend there, I did not see everything. I’m going to have to return again one day.

After a day among the ruins, I took the train a few stops west to modern Ostia and dipped my toes into the Tyhrrenian Sea with my new friends.

Three Thousand Years in Nine Days – Day Six

Roman Italy, Rome 2014 / By admin

Day Six began inauspiciously. I took the metro out to EUR to visit the Museo della Civilta Romana only to find it closed. It was a shame because this museum holds a model of ancient Rome that I wanted to see. Next time.

Back into town to the Piramide metro stop. Just opposite this stop are two small remnants of ancient Rome – the Porta San Paolo/Museo della Via Ostiense and the Pyramid of Calius Cestius.

The pyramid is the tomb of a Roman magistrate and member of a college of priests built between 12 and 18 BC. It was built along the Via Ostiensis, the road that lead to Rome’s port, Ostia.

A short walk away is the area of Testaccio and Monte Testaccio, the hill created by centuries of discarded ancient clay amphorae.

From here I walked to the Baths of Caracella. These baths, dating from AD 212, are located in a gorgeous setting and are impressively tall.

The baths were decorated with mosaic flooring.

And tiles on the wall.

On the grounds of the Baths of Caracalla a modern artist Michaelangelo Pistoletto has created a piece from ancient fragments of the baths called The Third Paradise.

A short walk and then a metro ride from the Circo Massimo stop and I’m back in my own neighbourhood.

Three Thousand Years in Nine Days – Day Five

Roman Italy, Rome 2014 / By admin

For Day Five I made an online reservation at the Vatican Museums, a great way to avoid the long lineups. Better to spend 4 euros than wait hours in line. Day Five was a Wednesday and Pope Francis was giving a Papal Audience in St. Peter’s Square so I was swimming against the tide heading to the Museums instead of the square.

So much to see in the museums. The Catholic Church and Popes have acquired a lot of ancient Roman artifacts over the centuries. I think I enjoyed myself most in the Museo Chiaramonti which was filled with an assortment of ancient Romans, many unknown, whose busts have survived the centuries.

The woman sported the most diverse and interesting hairstyles.

The men were varied as well, with dignitas and quirkiness on display.

Scattered through other rooms and courtyards were more stunning remnants of the Roman Empire.

Sarchophagus of St. Helena mid 4th Century?

One complaint I have about the Vatican Museums is the lack of signage for many of the artifacts. Possibly they don’t have provenance for all of their pieces but some description would be nice.

No lack of provenance for Rafael’s frescoes in the Stanza della Segnatura of Rafael though. These date from 1508 to 1511.

I really was impressed by the Sistine Chapel. I saw it 33 years ago and all Michaelangelo’s frescoes had a smoky mutedness. They have been cleaned since and now the colours are vibrant and the paintings have come to life. But since no photo taking is allowed, I have none to offer.

Finally there were Roman mosaics in various rooms and here are some highlights.

18 2nd Century Palestrina Mosaic — Palestrina Mosaic 2nd Century

After many hours in the museums I finally ventured outside into St. Peter’s Square.

Into the Basilica.

Michaelangelo's Pieta — Michaelangelo’s Pieta

Then walked home via Castel Sant Angelo.

St. Peter's from Castel Sant Angelo — St. Peter’s from Castel Sant Angelo

Castel Sant Angelo and one of Bernini's angels — Castel Sant Angelo and one of Bernini’s angels

Three Thousand Years in Nine Days – Day Four

Roman Italy, Rome 2014 / By admin

Day 4 was spent visiting museums and a church.

The Museum of the Imperial Fora was an expensive museum with very little in it. I hoped to see the interior of Trajan’s Market as part of it but this was closed.

Next up was the National Museum of Rome and I found a few more things of interest there. There were statues and little sarcophagi with intricate carvings giving some insight into the individuals who once inhabited ancient Rome.

A Dockworker from the port of Ostia. 1st Cent. AD — A Dockworker from the port of Ostia. 3rd Cent. AD

Funerary Urn of C. Iulus Hermes, a freedman. 1st cent. AD

Family Group from Funerary carving. 75-50 BC

Carving of Mithras - Tauroctomy — Carving of Mithras – Tauroctony

Next was the Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria and the Baroque decorations of Gian Lorenzo Bernini, including the statue of the Ecstasy of St. Teresa, dating from 1647.