Welcome to Roman Britannia! Salvete Britanniae!

Rutupiae Monument Base

Richborough Fort, which the Romans called Rutupiae, was the gateway to Roman Britain. Its history began in AD 43 with the invasion force led by the emperor Claudius. This May I explored Richborough which is near Dover in the county of Kent.
Rutupiae began as a base marching camp for Claudius’ conquest of the island. During the Roman occupation of Britain the site developed from a military base to a civilian town and harbour and then in the third century AD a stone Saxon Shore fort was built here.
Model of Gateway to Britannia Monument

Rutupiae was the main port into Britannia from the English Channel and one of the things I discovered visiting the site was that the Romans built a huge monumental archway that could be seen for miles as the physical gateway into Roman Britain. Built in AD 85, this monument was covered in white Carrara marble from Italy and bronze statues. It stood 86 feet high. All that remains of it now is the foundation.

Defensive Ditches at Richborough

The large grass-covered ditches that dominate Richborough are also striking and unusual. It is uncommon for fort defensive ditches to be left exposed after excavation. They date from the third century fort.
Other nearby Roman sites in Kent worth visiting are Reculver Roman Fort, the Roman Lighthouse (pharos) in Dover Castle and the Roman Painted House in Dover.

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High Up Hardknott

How high could it be I thought? England has no real mountains (not like the mountains where I come from). And the trek up Hardknott Pass started gently enough, with its views of heather-covered hills and babbling brooks, lulling me into a false sense of “just another Roman fort”. After a week of visiting many forts along Hadrian’s Wall, Hardknott needed to be special to impress me.

But soon the country lane turned into a single track mountain road with hairpin turns and what seemed like nearly vertical grades. Near the top, if the cars coming down didn’t give way then I’m not sure we could have got the car going again once we stopped.

Mediobogum or Hardknott Roman Fort sits on a ridge of undulating ground at 800 feet above sea level, not too far from the top of the pass. The views from the site are spectacular to say the least. No the pass isn’t as high as those where I come from but it is impressive and unexpected.

And perched on hills and in fields around the fort, were herds of Herdy (Herdwicke) sheep. Those incredibly cute Lake District sheep start out life as black lambs with white faces and become grey as they age. Their faces are truly adorable.

For quick facts about the fort’s remains and history, go to Hardknott Fort.

 

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Sheep Among the Ruins

A bonus of my tour of Roman footprints in Britannia has been the expansion of my ovine knowledge. In other words, there are sure a lot of sheep among the ruins. And who knew there were so many different breeds? Here are a few of the woolly Romans I’ve met along the way.

North Country Cheviot Sheep stationed on Brunton’s Turret, Hadrian’s Wall
Two Swaledale Sheep on the North York Moors near Wheeldale Roman Road and Cawthorn Roman Camps
North of England Mule Sheep on Lambley Farm, my Hadrian’s Wall Headquarters
Sheep Sentries on Hadrian’s Wall – Walltown Crags
Herdwicke Sheep near Hardknott Roman Fort
Suffolk Black Face Sheep on the walls of Venta Icenorum, Norfolk
Greeting Committee of Norfolk Horned Black Face at Burgh Castle (Garionnonum), Norfolk

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Museums Along Hadrian’s Wall

The many museums from Newcastle to Maryport are filled with excellent artefacts and exhibits, and give a glimpse into the lives of the people who lived along Hadrian’s Wall.

Roman Glass
Copy of Corbridge Lanx

Great Northern Museum Hancock in Newcastle has an interactive model of the full length of Hadrian’s Wall, a reconstruction of Carrawburgh Mithras Temple, as well as many artefacts from the eastern forts of Arbeia and Segedunum.

Vindolanda Fort’s museum is filled with rare leather and wood finds, preserved by the anaerobic soil of several wood and stone forts built there over the years. These include the extraordinary wooden tablets with the words of the people who lived and worked at the fort. There is also a wonderful display of shoes and tools.

The Roman Army Museum (associated with Vindolanda Fort) has a very good film of the history with computer generated reconstructions and aerial footage of the wall. I’ve always been astounded by the delicate blue Roman glassware that has survived for almost 2000 years and one of my favourite souvenirs is a replica beaker with horses and riders I bought at RAM. This was made by Roman Glassmakers (www.romanglassmakers.co.uk).

At Corbridge (Corstupitum) there was an early fort that predated the wall. Here there are also remains of the civilian settlement that surrounded the fort. Inside the site’s small museum are many interesting artefacts, including the Corbridge Lion and a replica of the beautiful silver Corbridge Lanx (the original is in the British Museum).

We chose a rainy day to visit the Tullie House Museumin Carlisle with its collections of artefacts from Roman Carlisle (Luguvailum Carvettiorum) and Hadrian’s Wall. We then travelled south along the Solway Firth to the SenhouseMuseum in Maryport with its extensive collection of altars and inscriptions.

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Io Saturnalia

“But you, Saturn, cast off your fetters and come near. You, too, December, tipsy from so much wine, and laughing Good Cheer and wanton Joviality, come and be present.”[1]

In the cold dark days around the winter solstice, when the sun stops traveling away from us and begins its return, we have always chosen to make merry. We have brought light to the darkness by giving gifts, spending time with family and friends, being kind to those less fortunate, and by overindulging. Long before Christmas these traditions began.

December 17 was the festival day of Saturnalia for the ancient Romans. In the early days, when Rome was just a small city-state, they celebrated with a free public banquet followed by a religious ceremony at the temple of Saturn in the forum. Generosity and gift-giving extended even to slaves, as Cato the Elder, in the second century BC, prescribed just how much extra wine to give to slaves – almost twice as much as usual.[2]

Saturnalia was the celebration in honour of Saturn, the Roman god of agriculture and seed sowing. Saturn was equated with the Greek god, Cronus, the father of Zeus. Cronus, himself was often depicted as an old man with a beard and a scythe, much like our Father Time. But I wonder if somewhere along the way he might have met up with Saint Nicholas and morphed into Santa as well.

As the Roman Empire spread throughout Europe, North Africa and the Middle East, their Saturnalia traditions spread too. But even over thousands of years and the advent of Christianity, which absorbed a lot of Roman traditions, we can still see many vestiges of Roman customs and symbols in our own modern winter solstice celebrations.

Romans greeted each other with “Io Saturnalia” on the day. Businesses and stores closed. Often slaves were given a day off and there was a tradition of role-reversal, when masters would serve their slaves and give them gifts. Everyone wore freedman caps (felt hats given to slaves when they were freed), to show the freedom of the festivity and to represent equality, even if it was only for one day a year.

Gifts were given to friends and family, sometimes by lot (something like secret Santa exchanges). Beeswax candles were popular gifts. In the late first century AD, Martial wrote about Saturnalia gift-giving in his Epigrams.

“At this time of year, when the equestrians and senators show off their party clothes, and even the emperor wears a freedman’s cap, and the home-bred slave is not afraid to look straight at the aedileand shake the dice box (even though he sees the icy tanks so nearby), accept the gift you have drawn, whether from a poor or a rich man. Let everyone give his guest an appropriate gift.

“Accept this parasol which can block even the intense sunlight. Even when it is windy, you will by protected by your own awning. This pig will make your Saturnalia merry. He was fed acorns and pastured with the foaming boars. If your clothing has been soiled by yellow dust, this little oxtail brush will clean it with a light whisk.”

Martial continues with a wry observation on the behaviour of those with new money during his day, a time when expansion was bringing an influx of wealth into the empire and changing people’s values.
“On wintry cold days of Saturnalia, Umber used to give me, when he was poor, a cape as a gift. Now he gives me a drink, because he has become rich.”[3]

Not all Romans embraced the spirit of the season. One of Martial’s contemporaries, Seneca the Younger, a Stoic, was somewhat disapproving of the excesses of the season. But we can certainly relate to his feelings a little when Christmas decorations and ads start appearing in October.

“This is the month of December, when the whole city is aglow with excitement. License has been given for intemperate behaviour by the general public. Everywhere you can hear the sound of elaborate preparations, as if there were some differences between the Saturnalia and regular business days. The distinction is fading. I think that man was quite right who said, ‘December used to be a month; now it’s the whole year.’”[4]

By looking back, we can see our primeval need to celebrate at this time of year, just as we have been doing for longer than we can remember. We discover that the real reason for the season, when we dig past the greed and the intemperate behaviour, is to rejoice in light returning to the earth. Whether we believe that that light is a baby saviour, a miracle that provided oil that kept lamps lit for eight days or simply the sun’s return; when our days are dark and cold, we are compelled to celebrate by bringing light and lightness into our lives and the lives of others.

Io Saturnalia!

[1]Statius, Silvae, translated by Jo-Ann Shelton.

[2]Cato the Elder, On Agriculture.

[3]Martial, Epigrams, Translated by Jo-Ann Shelton.

[4]Seneca the Younger, Letters, Translated by Jo-Ann Shelton.

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A Week On The Wall Part Two – Roman Britain Tour 2010

Wall down to Willowford Bridge Abutment

 

 

 

 

 

For me, Cawfields Milecastle holds a special place because it was the very first site I saw of Hadrian’s Wall in 2005. Standing there, leaning on the wall and looking out over the somewhat bleak northern English landscape, I felt a connection with the Romans who lived around and patrolled the wall.

But during my 2010 visit, I saw many more sites that were equally as impressive. For stunning wallscapes, the Walltown Crags section was hard to beat. Part of the Hadrian’s Wall’s attraction, besides its amazing engineering and the fact that a lot of it is still standing, is the rugged, craggy landscape it snakes along.

Another walk along the wall I would recommend is from Gilsland to Birdoswald, a stretch just over a mile with two milecastles, two turrets and the Willowford bridge abutment remains at the River Irthing. Unfortunately time and weather kept me from hiking along the Steel Rigg and Crag Lough sections, but they are said to offer great views. I could see these sections from the B6318 road that runs up and down parallel to the wall.

Forts on the wall include Corbridge Roman Town with an excellent museum. Corbridge was an early fort that predated the wall and there are remains of the civilian settlement that surrounded the fort. Chesters Fort has the best preserved Roman military bath house in Britain, and Housesteads and Birdoswald Forts have long lengths of wall attached. Vindolanda Fort is south of the wall and there was a fort there about forty years before the wall was built.

Hadrian’s Wall was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, and in 2005 it became part of a new multi-national World Heritage Site called Frontiers of the Roman Empire. Hadrian also built various frontier structures along the Rhine and Danube Rivers in Europe and in North Africa.

 

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